What is a Surcoat?

In the Middle Ages, fashion was not merely a matter of aesthetics but also of functionality and symbolism. One garment that exemplifies this combination is the surcoat, also known as tabard, surcoat, or coat of arms. The surcoat served a multipurpose role in its time, ranging from providing protection and comfort to acting as a heraldic identifier amidst the chaos of the battlefield.

Definition and Main Characteristics

The surcoat is essentially a sleeveless tunic worn over other garments, notably over the armor or chainmail of knights. Its basic design was a straight-cut garment with an opening for the head, cinched at the waist with a cord, belt, or strap. Specific features of surcoats varied:

• Simple sleeveless tunics
• With front slits on the lower half to allow greater mobility
• Quartered designs, divided into sections of different colors
• Bipartite, with contrasting colors on the chest and back

Made from sturdy fabrics like cotton, some luxurious surcoats were lined with ermine or vivid-toned textiles, indicating the wearer's nobility. In modern recreations, faux leather is frequently used to emulate these historical designs.

Origins and Historical Evolution

Surcoats began to gain popularity around the time of the Second Crusade, during the 11th and 12th centuries. Originally simple and humble, these tunics evolved over time into distinctive garments worn by knights and men-at-arms until the 15th century. This evolution reflected both advances in armor technology and changes in the feudal system.

Main Functions and Uses

Surcoats served various practical and symbolic functions:

Practical Functions

• Weather Protection: Acted as a coat against cold weather and harsh elements.
• Thermal Protection: Kept the armor cool by preventing overheating from the sun.
• Padded Layer: Added a layer that softened chafing and cushioned blows.

Symbolic Functions

• Heraldic Identification: Displayed the colors and crests of the knight’s house, distinguishing allies from enemies in battle.
• Status Symbol: Reflected the wearer’s social position when adorned with emblems.
• Ceremonial Element: Worn in tournaments and courtly events as part of formal attire.

Main Types and Variants

There are several variants of surcoats based on their design and use:

By Design

• Simple Surcoat: A basic tunic without adornments.
• Quartered: Divided into sections of different colors.
• Parted or Bipartite: Contrasting colors on the chest and back.
• With Emblems: Decorated with heraldic elements such as lions.

By User

• For Knights: Commonly adorned with coats of arms and shields, worn over armor.
• For Ladies: Specific versions for noblewomen, tailored to the female fashion of the time.

Contemporary Use

Today, surcoats have experienced a revival in various contexts:

• Historical Reenactments: Essential in medieval reconstructions.
• Medieval Fairs: Popular at themed events that recreate the medieval era.
• LARP Events and Themed Weddings: Incorporated in live action role-playing games and medieval-themed celebrations.
• Alternative Fashion: Find a place in current historical and alternative design.

Accessories and Proper Use

To wear a surcoat correctly in historical contexts:

• It is cinched at the waist with a belt, cord, or strap.
• It may be complemented by a baldrick to carry swords.
• It is frequently worn over period blouses and simple breeches.

The rich functionality and history of surcoats remain fascinating, offering a tangible connection to the past through their versatility and symbolism within medieval culture.