Gambeson Vs. Arming Jacket

The gambeson and the arming jacket (aka aketon) share origins and materials but have different functions and designs within medieval defensive equipment. This article clearly and practically explains what each garment is, their uses, key differences, and how they influenced the evolution of European armor.

What is a gambeson?

The gambeson is a padded garment made from layers of fabric (linen, wool, or cotton) filled to absorb impacts. It could be used as standalone protection or as a base layer under other armors, such as chainmail or plate armor. Its popularity spans from the Early Middle Ages to the Modern Age, especially among soldiers who could not afford metal armor.

• Main function: Cushioning cutting and blunt blows; reducing the effect of focused impacts.
• Variety of thicknesses: From thin gambesons for use under mail to extremely thick models capable of being the sole protection.
• Comfort and weight distribution: Prevents chafing and distributes loads when worn under metal pieces.
• Accessibility: Relatively simple materials and construction, allowing for widespread adoption.
• Versatility: In some cases reinforced with leather pieces or mail inserts to improve local protection.

What is the arming jacket (aketon)?

The arming jacket is a shorter, fitted version of the gambeson, specifically designed as a base for plate armor. Its name (aketon) comes from European contexts related to cotton and quilted tailoring. Rather than an alternative to the gambeson, it is a technical evolution aimed at securing and providing comfort with heavy armor.

• Fitted design: Shorter, tailored cut that prevents folds and overlaps with plates.
• Reinforcements and attachment points: Seams and reinforcements for sewing straps and mail pieces at strategic points (armpits, neck, groin).
• Optimized thickness: Generally less bulky than a heavy gambeson to facilitate mobility and allow plate adjustment.
• Technical function: Acts as an interface between leather/metal and the body, absorbing chafing and distributing forces.
• Typical users: Mainly knights and soldiers armored with full plate armor.

Key differences — point by point

• Purpose: The gambeson offers versatile padded protection; the arming jacket serves as a structural base to attach plates.
• Length and cut: Gambeson is usually longer (sometimes thigh-length); jacket is short and fitted to the torso.
• Thickness: Gambeson varies greatly; the jacket tends to be thinner but reinforced at specific points.
• Audience: Gambeson: the entire troop. Jacket: full armor users.
• Added elements: The jacket includes attachment points for straps and mail; the gambeson may not include them except in specialized versions.

How did this affect combat?

The existence of both solutions shows the growing specialization of equipment: the gambeson democratized protection on the battlefield, while the jacket allowed plate armor to be more effective and wearable. Where the gambeson prioritized impact absorption, the jacket prioritized mechanical integration between body and metal.

Historical context and evolution

As piercing weapons (powerful bows, crossbows, polearms) and combat techniques evolved, protection also specialized. The gambeson emerged alongside chainmail as a complement or substitute and endured due to its simplicity. The arming jacket gained prominence from the 14th century onward, when white armor and articulated plates required a stable and sturdy base for assembly.

Choice according to modern use (historical reenactment, LARP, study)

• Reenactment of common troops or light combat: Longer, thicker padded gambeson.
• Reenactment of knights with full plate: Fitted arming jacket with attachment points and less bulk.
• Research and testing: Both should conform to historical patterns and use consistent materials to obtain comparable data.