What is a Jaqueta?

The jacket is a garment that represents an iconic part of men's fashion during the Renaissance. Also known by different names such as jaquetilla, xaqueta, or xaquetilla, its history dates back to the Late Middle Ages. Its development was driven not only by functional needs but also by a significant cultural transformation in how clothing was used as a symbol of social status and elegance.

Origin and Historical Evolution

The jacket was born approximately around the year 1370 within the military context, coinciding with the appearance of the doublet. Initially, this garment was designed for soldiers, providing additional protection when worn over the battle doublet and under armor or loriga. It was made with padding and lining of cotton or wool, features that provided insulation and warmth to the wearer. However, it soon transcended its military use to become civilian attire, gaining popularity during the 15th century.

The jacket established itself as an essential piece of Renaissance men's wardrobe, commonly worn over the doublet and paired with hose. This fashion allowed for a wide range of styles, especially in the design of the sleeves, which could vary in cut and ornamentation.

Distinctive Features

One of the most distinctive features of the jacket was its length, which left the thighs exposed, causing some controversy within Christian medieval society. The garment was fitted to the body and often required help to put on or take off, reflecting not only a functional aspect but also an indicator of social status.

• Extremely fitted
• Padded for greater warmth
• Complemented with a belt of articulated plates (in its early forms)

Social Context and Usage

The jacket was particularly popular among young nobles and wealthy merchants, serving as a symbol of distinction and refinement. Its tailoring was carried out by the "jubonero," a craftsman specialized in this type of high-quality clothing. During its peak, it served not only a practical purpose but also reflected the status and stylistic taste of the wearer.

Evolution and Decline

With changing fashion trends over time, the shape and use of the jacket underwent transformations. In the early 15th century, the extremely tight style began to decline, and the jacket was incorporated into looser ensembles known as "short clothes."

From the 15th century onward, the jacket declined in popularity, and the term itself started to fall out of use. Before the 16th century, words such as "sayuelo" and "ropeta" began to replace it, marking its obsolescence in fashion terminology.

Variants and Cultural Legacy

There are known variants of the jacket, such as the jaquetilla, which is a shorter version of the original. This evolution had a significant impact on the development of later garments, laying the groundwork for what would later become modern jackets.

The legacy of the jacket is prominent in the history of Western clothing, representing a break with earlier fashion trends of the period and reflecting social and cultural changes of its time. The influence of the jacket remains present in contemporary fashion, demonstrating the importance of clothing as a reflection of social and cultural identity.